So far I just have the basic valve breakdowns.
I was going to eventually add all the maintenence and diagnostic procedures but after looking over AGD's Web Site, I thought that would be a little redundant. If you are having problems, I suggest you look there....excellent Tech Pages....
|Photos (Above) Show inside views of A.I.R. after seperation. (Left, A.I.R. Front Half) Shows Regulator Valve (Pin) still in place. (Right, A.I.R. Rear Half) Shows Regulator "Seat" in place. As pressure equalize, the pin seals against the seat shutting off gas supply to gun. Quite often if the velocity fluctuates, change the Regulator Seat. I change mine every couple of months to keep it in top running condition and I've never had an on-field failure - even when I ran Co2. Ok, so the Valve has an 8-Hole Mod. What's it do - nothing at all. This was one I purchased for testing a few years back and I thought it looked better due to the external milling so I left it on the gun.|
|(Left) Shows the Regulator Pin as removed from Front Half of A.I.R. Spring "clips" onto pin and rarely wears out. Mating surface of pin to Seat should be about flush with surface of the valve and it should also move freely in it's hole.|
|(Powertube Internals, Left to Right) Powertube O-Ring, Powertube Spacer, and Powertube Tip with it's O-Ring in place. Powertube O-Ring is what seals the bolt.|
|With the trigger "Out" if the gun leaks down the barrel the problem is more than likely a problem with the O-Ring or an incorrect Spacer. Spacers rearely have to be changed unless you're switching bolts - rare even then.|
|Pressure/Velocity Adjustment Photo shows the four individual components inside the rear half of the A.I.R. Left to Right Piston and it's oring, Spring Pack, and the External Velocity Adjuster.|
|Keep the Piston and Spring Pack well lubed. If the Piston shows excessive wear it's nice to keep it polished so it will move easily in position. Inspect Spring Pack for wear.|
|(Left) On/Off Line Up. Left to Right Teflon O-Ring, On/Off Top O-Ring, On/Off Top, On/Off Bottom with it's outer O-Ring in place, and the On/Off Pin.|
|On/Off Pin seals into Teflon O-Ring during trigger pull to shut off the supply of gas to the chamber. If you hear a leak from this section of the gun with the trigger "Out", then replace the On/Off O-Rings. Always lube these parts. The On/Off Pin must be able to move freely. Inspect Pin for signs of scoring due to lack of proper lubrication.|
|(Right) Bottomside of On/Off Top showing lower Teflon O-Ring. Service with above.|
|RetroValve as supplied by AGD (less fitting). Also comes with a new sear. Since Mags have often had parts, other than those from the factory installed, these do not always function properly - out of the box. Sometimes the on/off pin requires shortening. Since this is a delicate procedure, it's best left to someone that knows what they're doing. I had to remove .040 of an inch from this one. According to AGD that's excessive but it works great.|
|Seperated Body Halves.
(Left) Shows Piston/Velocity Adjuster Section. (Right) Shows Front Section. Both inside views.
|(Above-Left) shows the o-ring used to seal the Regulator Pin in place. (Above-Right) Shows Regulator Pin protruding through Seat. There is also a small o-ring underneath it.
Note: Regulator Pin is hollow unlike the Mag.
|(Left) This shows the Regulator Seat Holder and the O-Ring found underneath it again. Image at left is what makes the Trigger "Reactive". More or less a small Regulator in itself, the Valve Pin Assembly, it provides the forward push on the trigger|
|to the tune of about 8 lbs. of pressure in comparison to the 4 lb. pull. If your RT's Trigger looses it's oomph, I've seen these little spring washers literally shattered to bits in some guns. Excessive use and/or lack of proper lubrication appears to always be the cause. These things will only work as well as they are taken care of. In all the years of playing I have never had a gun go down on the field. Preventative maintenance will always keep you in the game. And always keep spare parts.|
|(Front Section) Power Tube. Basically the same as the Mag. (Left to Right) Power Tube O-Ring, Power Tube Spacer, and Power Tube Tip with it's O-Ring.|
|(Left) Rear Body Section/Velocity Adjuster.|
|(Left to Right) Rear Body Section, Regulator Piston with it's o-ring, Double Coil Spring Pack, and Regulator Nut or External Velocity Adjuster.|
|(Left) Front Body Section showing the hole for the On/Off Valve. To the left is the hole for the rear Field Strip Screw.
|(Above-Right) Shows On/Off breakdown. (Left to Right) Upper On/Off Pin O-Ring, On/Off Pin, Lower On/Off Pin O-Ring, and On/Off Top. Functions about the same as the Mag only the pin design aids in providing the "Reactive" Trigger. This is also the same basic design as used in the AutoMag Z-Valves.|