MAG/RT Tech/Upgrader's FAQ

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What I have in Mind

This FAQ will explore how I basically started with the "Classic" model shown (Left) and ended up with what you see in the (Above) photo. This was basically the first gun that I fell into the "upgrade" path on and I'm still adding and subtracting as time goes by. I originally purchased this gun about 4 1/2 years ago and it's been through every upgrade, useful and worthless,
from the mundane to the great, in that span of time. I will, as time allows, cover the entire course that I took, explain why, how, and where.....


Gripframe

Ok, I'm showing a closeup of this frame since I am constantly being asked "what is it?" It's an old Auto-Response that is no longer made. It's original intention was that it allowed the player to fire twice with one pull of the trigger. Once on the pull, and once on the release. If you look closely, you'll notice that something is missing - yep, no trigger rod.
This frames utilizes a cam-type mechanism that about doubles the travel rate of the Mag's on/off valve. It also makes the pull stiffer but it will give you an insanely short trigger pull if you can find one. Also, the action is so quick that I can safely say it is almost impossible to short stroke the trigger. No kidding. The piece you see jutting out the frame is a trigger stop that I installed. This does two things; it prevents the mechanism from firing twice per pull and you can also dial this to about whatever trigger pull length you desire. The length you see is my preference. It can be much, much shorter than it is. I cut the guard for the double trigger and added the stop. No bleed on a slow pull either....incredible if you don't mind the pull being stiffer than normal. Yes, other things can be done to lighten the pull to help this out. Z-Valves often make the pull extremely light. In my case the Mag is now sporting a Retro-Valve so it's basically a mini RT that never (almost) breaks paint and cannot be short stroked. If at all possible to locate, it makes a really great upgrade in my opinion. Sorry, but I have no clue as to where you can find one of these frames .

(Above-Left) Shows the Diamond Lab Single Trigger frame. Also available in a Double Trigger version.
(Above-Right) Shows a Benchmark Double Trigger Frame.

(Left) My preference for a Bolt. ANS with Foamie. Back when I first bought a Mag I thought that breaking a ball or two a case was excessive. This bolt stopped almost all breakage I was having and I've used them ever since. My experience has shown it works great.
(Below) Much of what you see is purely cosmetic. Since my particular choice of grip frame does not provide for a safety, turning off the tank valve would still not prevent the gun from firing so I use a small slide check. The KAPP Foregrip-Extender often provides a more comfortable "hold" in some positions. Anything that will attach to the front of the Mag Body Rail will attach onto the Extender. They do not fit on RT's. The Barrel shown is an old LAPCO step honed version, 9 1/2". I've never found a barrel that performed better. It may be loud but it gives a velocity increase of 35 fps over a 12" Dye Ported Aluminum and the accuracy is much better. Very few were made so don't ask :)

Smart Parts Wood grips and Eclipse Splashed Body Components round out the complete gun. Since I have all these Mag Parts I might pick up a Z-Body and assemble another gun.


Other "Upgrades"

New! AutoMag Z-Body
Soon, I will be completely rebuilding the above gun. I'll swap the AutoResponse frame internals over to a new KAPP chrome frame and I'll be testing the new Z-Body. In case you haven't heard, the Z-body has an adjustable nylon pad in the top of the receiver. You may adjust it according to the paint size and it will apply a backspin to the ball; in theory this will cause ball "lift" giving the gun a much further range and flatter trajectory. I believe this is a much better way of doing it than using a curved barrel as Tippmann is doing with the new FlatLine. At least this way you still have a choice of barrels (Cocker), it's adjustable, and if you break paint, it's not a real pain to squeegee.....If they do work as promised we may sell the things.

If Interested - This is the Link to Galactic Systemz Web Site

This whole backspin thing brings up an interesting point. For years, I've been saying that Mags were not a very accurate gun due to the fact that players often use a loose bore barrel and the fact that the gun uses a wire nubbin; and that it was the cause of the Mags excessive ball spin. That excessive, uncontrolled spin, equated to loss of distance and loss of perceived accuracy. When I first got my hands on a tight bore barrel a few years back I was amazed at the difference in performance it made. I've often wondered if this is the reason the RT went to a double nubbin....speculation on my part.....

This body does, at least, provide for a controlled spin. Using good paint such as Marballizer or Proball should give some really interesting results....


On my never ending quest for just the right fitting I came across these KAPP items. They're Swivel Fittings, they sit high enough to clear the sight rails on Mags when using QD's and slide checks, and they look really good.

New Frame Mods
Photo (Left) shows the Benchmark Double Trigger Frame in Chrome. These things always have tons of excess side-to-side slop in their triggers. We'll get to this. Rear take-up (over travel) is horrible also. The Diamond Lab frames are technically much "tighter". The overall quality edge dips slightly in BM's favor; usually only if you wish to have something other than standard black anodize.
Since this frame has a guard, it is often a chore to install the usual over-travel set-screw behind the trigger. Many years ago I would drill a hole through the rear of the frame in order to could get an aligned hole to tap just behind the trigger to install the stop screw in. On frames with the guards removed it's a simple task to just drill and tap the hole - similar to the frame shown at the top of this page. Not so when you have a trigger guard in your way.
Photo (Above) shows the area I now use to install trigger stops on frames with guards. Since drilling and tapping a hole with a slot already in existence can be really "fun", you need to be really careful with this - especially when tapping the threads for the stop.
Photo (Right) shows the finished project. Drill and tap size will vary with what is used for the stop. In this case it's the adjuster from an old stock AutoCocker. Hex plugs also work great. They require a 1/8" NPT thread, whereas the adjuster used is a 3/8-24. Screw the adjuster so the top surface is flush with the top of the frame or slightly below, as to not interfere with the body rail when re-assembling.
The top of the trigger will hit the bottom of the stop, acting to prevent trigger over-travel. Adjustment is made by either tightening the plug further into the frame or by grinding the plug so that it's thinner. When drilling the pilot hole for the tap, be sure and not drill all the way through the trigger slot into the guard opening. It won't affect the operation but it would look rather horrible.....This method certainly isn't as easy to adjust as the version on the original cut frame but once it's set, there should be no need to alter it anyway. Also makes for a really clean looking installation. You ahve to be careful since you usually wind up cutting into the safety spring hole. To date, this has not been a problem....
(Above-Left) A hole for the sear spring has to be added. This mode doesn't just apply to a Mag with an AutoResponse Frame. We used to add these to stock Mag Sears also. Some players like the more "tactile" feel the return spring provides.
(Above-Right) Shows assembled frame with return spring in place.

(Above-Left) Is a photo of a stock Mag Sear.
(Above-Right) Shows what the "AutoResponse" Mag Sear and Linkage looks like installed in the Body Rail.
I almost forgot. If you should ever happen to get one of the AutoResponse frames and wish to swap it's guts over to another frame, some internal milling is also required to clear the linkage arm.....At least I have a guard (just in case) and a positive safety, other than the slidecheck (just in case).....

Galactic Systemz Z-Valve.
This photo shows the major components of the Z-Valve...a replacement on/off assembly. Also included are all necessary o-rings along with a replacement internal A.I.R. Regulator Pin designed to provide higher flow. Other than on a very few guns that this does not work in due to differences in gun tolerances, the worst thing I've heard about it is that for some players, it makes the trigger pull too light. Nice to see there's a valve that really does something out there.
The valve above is actually the RT version. Don't ask, they're not available in this country as yet. Since I used a modified AutoResponse mechanism in this gun and it did stiffen the pull, this lowered the pull weight. Incredible that the RT trigger can go even lighter. I'd like to thank Yoshi from "Galactic Systemz" for sending this valve to me for testing....

Note: If/When these become available, and if you are using this in a self installed Z-Valve, you will have to match the length of the on/off pin to that of the RetroValve. I don't know if my particular RetroValve was off or what but AGD did tell me that due to differences in bodies, tolerances, etc, the length of the pin may have to be altered. In my case though, it had to be shortened by .040. Stock length is .750 or 3/4 of an inch.

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